I get this question often since a good percentage of the bikes I sell each year are to regular folks who are planning to ride the BP MS-150 for the first time. Many of these riders have never owned a road bike before–or at least not a very good one–and are unsure as to exactly what type of bike they should buy to train for and complete this ride.
The obvious and easy answer to this question is that the best bike for you is (a) a bike that you can afford and (b) a bike that you can ride comfortably.
Ask anyone who is in reasonably good physical condition–who has completed the MS-150–and they will probably tell you that the ride itself is not that difficult. Sure, 150 miles SOUNDS like a long way to ride… but you have to remember that the distance is spread out over two entire days… so, even at a fairly leisurely 15 mph pace, that is only 5 hrs of riding in a 24 hr period… with another 2 hrs or so for rest stops, bathroom breaks, a lunch break, mechanical issues (the occasional flat tire), etc.
If you are in very poor physical condition, the pre-ride training will be very important for you. Start as early as possible and ride as often as possible and for as long as possible. The better you are prepared–both physically and MENTALLY–to ride for five or six hours a day–the easier the actual event will be. (I did my first MS150 quite easily–on a 15 yr old carbon Trek 5200–having previously never ridden more than 40 miles at a time.)
For 97% of the participants, the MS-150 is not a race… it is a social ride. Meaning that comfort should be more important to you than speed. If you ride often already–and you ride in the 20+ mph range–a racier bike (like an S-Works Tarmac or Madone 6.9 SSL) might be a perfect bike for the MS-150. If not–if you are a beginner or mid-level rider–you’ll probably want a bike with a less aggressive riding position. And every major bicycle brand (TREK, Specialized, Giant, etc) has both carbon and aluminum framed bikes that will work splendidly for the MS150.
A “full carbon” road bike is certainly a nice luxury to have on a long road ride like the MS-150… but it is definitely NOT a necessity. Most modern aluminum bikes will have a carbon fork–and often a carbon “tail” (seat stay / chain stay / rear triangle)–that are designed to absorb much of the buzz and vibration from pavement, gravel, and potholes. All things being equal (ie fit and components), the average rider will notice very little difference between an aluminum frame and a carbon one on a ride like the MS150. However, carbon bikes have some other properties to consider… for example, they tend to be lighter than other types of bikes (and thus easier to move around when not riding)… and they also tend to hold their values / have higher resale values than aluminum or steel bikes. (So, you might pay a bit more for a carbon bike up front… but you’ll probably get a higher percentage of your money back out of it when you eventually sell it.)
Many participants complete the BPMS150 on single speed bikes, hybrid bikes, vintage steel road bikes, mountain bikes–even “cruiser” type bikes. But riding those types of bikes will certainly make it much harder to complete the ride–and make the experience a lot less enjoyable.
Tire choice can also be a huge factor on a long, open road ride like the MS150. Historically, 23mm tire width (“skinny tires”) was standard on road bikes. But a few years ago, 25mm tires stared becoming more common… and now 28mm and larger are being used more often–especially on bikes with disc brakes–which generally allow clearance for wider tires. (Obviously the bigger the tire the more AIR it holds… which = more cushion between you and the road.)
There is a point of diminishing return between tire size and speed… since the larger the tire gets the more “rolling resistance” it will have–and the higher the rolling resistance, the more effort you have to exert to go a given speed. However, since the MS150 (and other similar rides) are not races–and top speeds are generally not a concern–sacrificing a few watts of effort in exchange for 8 to 10 hrs of more comfortable riding–with less fatigue afterward–is virtually always worth it.
Well equipped steel and titanium framed bikes are also very good choices for long, open road rides like the MS150–as those materials are designed and engineered to have a more supple, pliable, smooth ride–vs the stiff, racey ride of many carbon and aluminum bikes. (Steel and Ti frames are highly regarded and frequently prefered over carbon and aluminum frames for long distance and back country touring, gravel rides / races specifically due to their ride characteristics and their durability–as well as their repairability. If you’re riding across Africa on your carbon bike and it cracks… you’re done; but if you’re on a steel bike, it can be welded at the next town and you’ll be back on the road quickly.)
You stated steel bikes would make the ride less enjoyable, so what about something designed for long distance riding like the Surly LHT?
Hi Dustin. I think you are referring to my comment that “vintage steel” bikes (among other types you sometimes see on the MS150) can make the miles and the distance more difficult than it needs to be. And I didn’t circle back to elaborate–so I will now.
I wasn’t disparaging steel frames in general–many of them can actually ride quite nicely out on the open road–if set up correctly. It was more the “vintage” aspect that I was referring to. And there are a couple of reasons for that. (1) “vintage” bikes tend to have fewer gears than a modern bike… hence the common term “10 speed bike”–which originally described a bike with a small and a big chainring up front + 5 gears in the back–for a total of 10 “speeds”. A typical, newer road bike today has the same two chainrings up front–but with 9, 10 or 11 gears in the back–for a total of 18, 20 or 22 “speeds”. Obviously more gear options–particularly on a hilly ride like the MS150–is better than fewer–because they allow you to find the perfect gear for every situation–be it wind or hills or drafting off other (faster) riders, etc.
Older, vintage bikes also tend to have the shifters in inconvenient–even downright dangerous places–like the downtubes, the bar ends, or the stem area, which require you to take your hand off the bars and look away from the road to shift. Modern bikes have “STi” type shifters–which are perfectly placed and allow you to keep both hands safely on the wheels at all times when braking or shifting.
Older, vintage road bikes also tend to be limited to skinnier tire sizes (like 23mm or less) due to narrow frame clearances and tight brake caliper clearances–which were the standard in the past since everyone ran skinnier tires back then–because the prevailing wisdom was that skinnier = faster–which, scientifically turned out no always to be true. (See my other post about tire widths.)
So, yes, in terms of frame material, aluminum, carbon, steel, and titanium are all perfectly good choices for the MS150… as long as they are set up correctly for that type of riding–with the right gearing and tire size (and type).
That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the tips.